Less Is More: The Art Of The Ultra Thin Watch

AudemarsPiguet Jules Audemars Extra Thin Automatic

Rose gold, $21,800; white gold, $23,300

Though rightly famous for its Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore watches, AudemarsPiguet is also known to insiders as one of watchmaking’s greatest masters of complicated watchmaking. Though they may look simple, many experts rate true extra flat watches as complications in their own right, thanks to the difficulty in designing and assembling them.  One of the most legendary extra flat movements in the world is behind the simplicity and purity of the Jules Audemars Extra Thin Automatic: the AudemarsPiguetcalibre 2120.  One of the thinnest self-winding movements ever made, and still the thinnest full-diameter rotor automatic movement, the exquisitely finished skeletonized rotor rides on ruby rollers to help keep it functioning smoothly despite the extremely tight tolerances in its construction.

The VacheronConstantin “Les Historiques” 1955

$23,300

It’s only natural that the most venerable of watchmaking houses –VacheronConstantin has been in business since 1755 –is one of Switzerland’s greatest masters of ultra thin watchmaking as well.  The “Les Historiques” 1955, based on a vintage model from that year, blends old school charm with carefully chosen, up to date technical advances.  At only 1.64mm thick, the hand-wound movement inside (Vacheroncalibre 1003) is one of the thinnest ever made, and the entire watch is a mere 4.10mm.  Such ultra thin watches are usually ultra fragile but clever engineering allows the use of a see through case, with a water resistance of up to 30 meters.   Owners will appreciate this update to the original, solid case back design from 1955 –it allows a view of the stunning 18k gold movement.