Haute Complication: Patek Philippe 5270P
In some cuisines, the highest quality of salmon enjoys a cult-status. In watchmaking, this isn’t any different as one of the very few watches that could hold its ground against the announcement at this years Baselworld of the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar, was another Patek Philippe; the 5270P with a platinum case and….salmon dial!
With the 5270, which was introduced in 2011, Patek Philippe said goodbye to its Lemania-based movements for their perpetual calendar chronograph, marking an important moment in their imposing history. Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is everything you could expect from a complicated, high end, Swiss-made movement. It combines tradition with innovation, in a way on which Patek Philippe seems to have a patent.
With a diameter of 41 mm and a height of 12.4 mm is the 5270P very well proportioned. Its elaborately crafted case, with perhaps the most beautiful lugs available on a watch in current production, matches perfectly with the imposing dial. The platinum adds a nice bit of heft to it, while the contrast brings out the salmon dial even more. While it contains a lot of information, it is presented in such a way that all functions can be easily read.
Combined with a brown alligator strap is the 5270P a very classic proposition. Especially the design of the dial is inspired by the famed Ref.1518 from 1941, the brand’s very first perpetual calendar chronograph, and also the first ever to be made in series. It is a watch that honors tradition which also becomes clear from the fact that the watch is always delivered with two case backs: one that features a sapphire crystal so that the complicated and expertly finished movement can be admired. However, also a closed platinum case back is included in the box of the 5170P. This also clearly indicates the position that this perpetual calendar chronograph holds, not only at Patek Philippe but in the world of watches as a whole: as a guardian of complicated, traditional watchmaking at the highest level!
