Haute Complication: Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar
In the German town of Glashütte, they do things slightly different when it comes to watchmaking then their Swiss cousins. This is more a matter of style than quality because some of the best watches in the world come from this part of Germany and among them the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar.
The difference in style becomes immediately evident when you handle the watch. In German, they have the term ‘Gründlichkeit,’ which can be translated as ‘thoroughness,’ and that is exactly what the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar embodies. To some extent, it is ‘form follows function’ to the other an exceptional eye and determination for detail. While the case may seem a bit straightforward in its design, closer examination reveals not only a perfect execution and finish, but also lovely and subtle details, such as the refined stepped bezel and the transition of the case into the lugs.
The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar looks larger than it in fact is. With a diameter of 42mm, it is a very wearable and pleasant size for many, yet it looks like you are wearing a 44mm watch. This is because the dial takes up the majority of the space, and Glashütte Original made the windows and subdials that support the complications of the watch rather small in relation to the available space. This is very clever of them because where you would expect that this would make them harder to read, the opposite has happened. Because there is relatively a lot of blank space, it is much easier for the eyes to focus. This is even further aided by the stepped design of the windows that show the day, date and month. Combined this results in a modest yet powerful composition which is by no means overcrowded and that is something not many perpetual calendars can say.
The movement is another place where the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar shows its German pedigree. Underneath the full-size rotor, with 21 ct gold insert for added weight, we find the typical three-quarter plate with a Glashütte stripe finish, as well as a beautiful swan neck regulator. It is a beautiful mix of refinement and robustness, both that are key elements in what makes this watch so desirable. While Glashütte Original offers this watch in 18 ct red gold, it is also available in steel, and even on a steel bracelet. A rarity for a perpetual calendar with a manufacturing calendar, yet perfect for those who like a more robust watch for every day, without compromising on its refinement!
