Baselworld 2014: Spotlight on Bulgari

Bulgari’s watchmaking division continues to impress aficionados with new mechanisms, consolidating its reputation as a manufacture. This year’s dazzler is the introduction of the world’s thinnest tourbillon, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, which is just 5.00mm thick. It contains a manual wound caliber, with a tourbillon cage measuring just 1.95mm thick. The entire movement is just 2.23mm thick. The absence of an upper bridge contributes to the slim profile, as does the thin barrel cage, and the watch houses a mainspring that is thinner but longer than usual. Caseback screws were also redesigned and made shorter. The carriage itself pivots by means of a ball bearing. The case is platinum.

Also new in the Octo line is a new chronograph movement, the Velocissimo, a high-frequency automatic caliber (36,000 VpH), equipped with a column wheel and silicon escapement, with a 50-hour power reserve. It is cased in either 18k pink gold or steel, with a rich, black lacquered dial.

Also impressive this year is the Bulgari Ammiraglio del Tempo (Admiral of Time), a Westminster Chime minute repeater with four hammers and four gongs. An homage to marine chronometers, the movement is distinguished by a detent escapement for high accuracy, as well as a constant-force device to regulate the energy supplied by the barrel to the balance. An intriguing feature is that one of the lugs serves as the activating slide for the minute repeater, a first in watchmaking.

Bulgari displays its prowess in the art of enameling with the Giardino Marino, a tourbillon (Caliber BVL 263) with inset mother-of-pearl, coral, turquoise and diamonds, against a background of dark blue lacquer. The bezel is set with 36 diamonds totaling 2.88 carats. It is platinum, with a 22k gold rotor, and will be produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Another tourbillon for ladies, the Berries Tourbillon Emeralds, is punctuated by emeralds surrounding the tourbillon cage, against a backdrop of mother-of-pearl marquetry and surrounded by diamonds. There is also a ruby version.

Rounding out the impressive offering of ladies’ watches from Bulgari this year is a Catene with a vibrant carnelian dial, and several new versions of the iconic, fascinating Serpenti, all with flexible bracelets.