What Makes Luxury Time-Only Watches So Expensive?

By Arthur Touchot | August 10, 2015

‘The only thing I need my watch to tell me, is the time.’ The most common rejection of complicated high-end watches may carry a hint of truth, but it would be wrong to underestimate the value of a fine time-only watch. To help us explain why, we’ve selected two time-only watches presented at the fairs this year for $15,000 or more. They are the Rolex Cellini Time with diamonds, the A. Lange And Söhne Saxonia Automatic.

As you can tell, these are watches from two of the most acclaimed watchmakers. A certain status, a sense of belonging to an exclusive club of collectors, comes with owning a watch from any brand with such history. They represent the best to come out of Germany and Switzerland, countries renowned for their watchmaking heritage, and are a guarantee of quality. Unfortunately, that comes at a certain cost.

A. Lange & Söhne certainly knowns the value of its latest time-only watch. The brand celebrated what would have been the 200th birthday of its founder, and the Saxonia Automatic is one of the models the German watch brand has chosen to honour this milestone. Very little changes were made though, as the model is already perceived as perfection. The new watches welcomes double-baton indices at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock for a clearer look at the time. The Saxonia has been a testament to A. Lange & Söhne’s understated quality for the past twenty years, and it shall be for the next.

Meanwhile, the Cellini Time remains the standard-bearer of dress watches at Rolex. While the Swiss brand is half the age of its northern neighbor, its name is recognized around the world as the definition of luxury and fine craftsmanship. The Cellini Time, which made its comeback last year, was once again present at Baselworld this year. Made in everose gold (which contains platinum) with diamonds on an enamel dial, it’s no wonder why this vintage-inspired three-handed watch is a little more expensive than the majority of watches unveiled at the same fair.

Technically, both watches also come with a certain guarantee. Each watch features and in-house movement, made from beginning to end by the brand. A. Lange & Söhne and Rolex continue to lead the race in terms of vertical integration, both manufactures offering their exclusive knowledge and technical superiority to their customers. And that’s worth investing in.